Recipe: How to Make Zongzi or Machang (Hokkien Style Glutinous Rice Meat Dumplings)

First, I am here to say that I bid all a happy prosperous new year and that I have not forgotten to post any new entries but between the holidays and work schedule, it is quite difficult to find time to do the videos, more to put them together and edit them.  But here it is - the first food post of 2014. 

Taiwan Style Tzong-Tze selling
in a Japanese store.

Oh yes. Ma-Tsang.  That glutinous steamy, meaty, yummy treat that reminds us of Chinese restaurants, dim sum and family.  It's easy to order, a pleasure to consume but quite complicated to make.  It's not that that's really difficult, but it’s a three step process that involves a lot of preparation then cooking then wrapping then cooking once again.  Just how labor laden is that? 

My first encounter with this yummy treat was in my childhood when it used to be available only in restaurants in Binondo, during which time, was a rare occasion.  My Father hated driving to downtown Manila, despite the fact that now, I realize that 8 miles from New Manila was not as bad as me driving forty miles to center city Philadelphia from where I am living now in the suburbs just to get a taste of this delight.  Anyway, now that I am just craving for Ma-Tsang, I decided to make it despite the complicated process.  Besides, I would make about twenty of them to freeze for future occasions.  I could give them as Christmas gifts too - hahahaha! 

"Machang" as we call it in the Philippines,
selling in Holland Bakery.

But a bit of history.  Traditionally, Ma Tsang which the Hokkien words refer to "Meat Sticky Rice" is only referred to as such in the Philippines because we customarily incorporate meat in the mixture.  However, this is not the case in other parts of China where it is usually sweet. Usually, "Tsang" or "Tsong Tse" which is how it is known in Mandarin is sweet in the northern part of China but savory in the South.  Because the Chinese immigrants of the Philippines usually come from Guangdong or Fujian, that is, Southern China, Tsang is traditionally savory and meaty.   Another to keep in mind is that Tsang - though it means sticky rice, may also be ground sticky somewhat resembling kalamay in the Philippines.  In both cases they are wrapped in leaves which may be different depending on the flavors one wants to experience.  Because the product does not have to be sweet nor savory, to be name correct about it, it is actually called, "Tsong Tse" which means, "Sticky Rice Thing". The "tse" is nothing more than a non-particular character of article much like, "Hay-Tse" meaning child. 

We would like to thank this guy, Qu Yuan
for the reason for the delicacy.

The story behind this food is very much like the August Moon Cake; however, a sad one.  They said in the period of the Warring States, the emperor failed to heed the prediction of a bard-foreseer (Qu Yuan) that he committed suicide by drowning himself jumping off the bridge over the Miluo River.  The people heard about this and in honor of this bard, every fifth day of the fifth moon the people throw these sticky cakes in the hopes that the fish would not devour his body. (WHAT?! What a waste!) These days of course, we eat them and we eat the fish too.  (That's more like it!) 

In the Philippines, some local housewives would use banana leaves to wrap these morsels; although not unacceptable, it has a different flavor.  Traditionally, bamboo leaves are used.  However, in some Chinese restaurants, because of its simplicity and similar flavor, lotus leaves are used.  I will show how to assemble the Ma-Tsang using both. 

Tzong Tze using bamboo
leaves as wrapper.

Northern Sweet Style Tzong Tze.;

Tsong-Tse (Hokkien Ma-Tsang) 

• 2 kilos glutinous rice 
• 2 kilos pork - preferably belly or shoulder 
• 1 head garlic, peeled and chopped 
• 1 medium onion, peeled and sliced 
• 1/4 up brown sugar (or to taste) 
• 1 cup soy sauce (light or dark to preference and to taste) 
• 1 tablespoon five spice powder 
• 1/8 kilo dried shrimp (Hokkien "He-Bi" or Mandarin "Shiya Mi") 
• 1/2 cup rice wine 
• 1 tablespoon ground pepper 
• salt to taste 
• 1 package Cantonese sausages ("Lap-Chong") each sliced into four pieces 
• 1 package dried shitake mushrooms, rehydrated and sliced 
• 3 packages pickled mustard leaves, washed and sliced 
• 1 1/2 cup shelled peanuts, raw and softened by blanching in boiling water for 30 minutes, save water 
• 6-8 salted duck eggs, peeled and sliced in four pieces 
• 1/2- 3/4 dried package lotus blossoms, rehydrated 
• Lotus leaves or bamboo leaves for wrapping 
• String to tie the Tsong Tse 

Procedure. 

1. Soak the glutinous rice in water for about three hours.  The level of the water is determined by gently touching the tip of your middle finger on the top level of the rice.  Adding water, the water level is at the first line above the tip of the middle finger. 
2. Blanch raw peanuts in boiling water for thirty minutes. Save water. 
3. Saute in hot oil, garlic and onions until brown.  Add the sugar to caramelize.  Saute the pork until mildly done.  Add soy sauce, wine, five spice powder and water to cover (add peanut water as well for flavor).  Simmer for about forty-five minutes to an hour until medium tender. 
4. Remove the meats and set aside.  Add to the stewing liquid the pepper and dried shrimp.  Let boil in low heat for a minute before adding the rice. Stir and lower the heat to simmer, covered for about fifteen to twenty minutes, stirring occasionally to prevent the rice from burning by the pan.  Once al dente to bite, turn off the heat and let cool.  It is much better to have softer rice than  
5. Assemble the Tsang-Tse.  Use two sheets of quartered lotus leaves or two/three pieces of bamboo leaves. Using lotus leaves, place in the middle a scoop of rice, a piece of meat, some of the added fillings then top with another scoop of rice.  Fold the leaves over and make sure the rice is covered, tie with string to settle.  If using bamboo leaves, get one leaf and have the sharp end lay on top of the bottom of the other, make a cup-like structure of this by somewhat rolling the bottom making a pointed triangle, filling this structure with rice and fillings as above.  This is tricky because the leaf-cup might be small to hold everything.  But fold the leaves on top to cover the rice. One may need to get another leaf (a smaller one) to cover what rice is exposed by cracks of the two leaves used.  Seal by likewise tying with strings. 
6. Steam for an hour.  An hour is preferred to thoroughly cook the rice and incorporate the flavors of the fillings with the meats and the leaves to release their flavors. 
7. Let rest until warm to allow the rice to stick together.  Serve. 

Tips. 

• It is normal that one may ran out of something during the assembly process.  So be sure that you have extras of everything.  If you run out of rice, you may get some garlic, sauté quickly in oil, add brown sugar, then wine, some five spices, salt and soy sauce with water to make the base for which one can cook some glutinous rice.  Again, at al dente, let the rice cool and proceed once again. 
• The Taiwanese style of Tsong Tse involves steaming the dumplings with the first layer somewhat a bit submerged in water.  This is okay and in fact, due to the solid nature of the dumpling, they will not disintegrate as one may think. 
• Lastly, feel free to experiment with flavors and fillings.  Some prefer not to have soy sauce or others will instead use sesame seed oil as main essence than five spice. If one wants a sweet version, use sweetened red beans or lotus seeds.  The rice needs to be sweetened though not savory.  There is simply nothing to prevent you from trying anything.