How to Make Kiampong 鹹飯 (Hokkien Chinese Rice Casserole)

I apologize, apologize, apologize!!!  I couldn't apologize enough as I know this post is long overdue  I have a great post though but when I did the video, I didn’t realize that the write up wasn't yet written.  Worse, I just have several things on my plate that I needed to digest....  On top of that, now I can reveal, that with the worst cold snaps that the United States experienced (yes, while there is a drought on the other side of the coasts), I, not doing my yoga, despite that I do proficient yoga, slipped on ice - seven weeks ago - and broke my ankle.  I didn’t take off from work, yet I have to go to work with a broken ankle, in a cast, fulfilling each responsibility while having to go to my Orthopedist and my Physical Therapist. 

Kiampong....mmmm. Memories of home. We used
to eat this with ketchup.  This one is
with Sriracha sauce on top.

Anyway, I am not here to b-- further but that was, I hope, a short explanation of a rather long list of hassles which prevented me to be timely with this.  So, off to the post.  But before that, I again, apologize. 

For today's post.  A remnant from my past and I hope yours too.  While the dish is popular in certain circles of the Filipino community, I think that originally, about forty years ago, as I was growing up, that this dish was usually only found strictly in  Chinese communities.  I didn’t see it in restaurants as I was growing up but then, I could be wrong.  I was quite surprised when saw it recently in menus of Chinese restaurants in Manila.  That dish, my friends, is "Kiampong". 

Kiampong is essentially a casserole dish which means that it contains all that one needs for a complete meal and in itself, is the carbohydrate, the vegetable and the meat, hence, a "casserole".  For my Filipino friends out there, as implied, casserole is "kaserola" which is the implement used to stew, boil or simmer foods, usually soups or braised meats.  But the use of the "kaserola" also may be found in casserole dishes like this one, much like paella, or pancit bihon or chicken pot pies. 

Meaning "salted rice" or "salty rice" in Chinese, it means that the dish is preflavored with meats and vegetables ready for serving rather than the bowl of white rice serves with other dishes -- meat, fish  or vegetables.  Hence, it is served, theoretically with just the pot in the middle of the table while each person grabs a plate or bowl, ready to grab some and eat away.  

And that's what my mom used to do when I was growing up with my siblings.  Because the dish has everything, and my mother would cook it on rare occasions, we kids considered it to be special.  And rightfully so, the pot would surely be empty in half an hour.  Even the burnt bottom of the pot would likewise be gone as well. 

When my mom shouts, "Lan Be Tsiah Loh!" (i.e.
"We are about to eat!") This is exactly how we
look like.

I've seen a lot of recipes out in the internet that call  kiampong as somewhat related to fried rice, but containing the usual ingredients found in kiampong.  It is not.  Kiampong is essentially a rice caserrole, like paella or Risotto.  Therefore, therefore the rice is boiled with the rest of the ingredients rather than separately and added later in a saute as in Fried Rice.  Also, this traditional way does not  have a lot of ingredients but just maintains it to the following: chicken, pork, soy sauce, chinese sausages, shitake mushrooms in rice.  This formula incidentally is true to the original from my mother, who learned it from her mother.  And now, it is with me and I am sharing it all of you. 

Kiampong (Hokkien Chinese Rice Casserole dish) 

• 1 pound chicken, cut into desired pieces 
• 1 pound pork, cut into desired pieces 
• 1/2 head garlic 
• 1 small onion, sliced 
• 2 Chinese sausages (Lap Chong) sliced into small pieces 
• 6 rehydrated dried shitake mushrooms, sliced 
• 1/2 pound of peeled and cubed butternut squash (or similar squash with the same sweet flavor) 
• 1/4 to 1/2 cup soy sauce 
• 1 tablespoon fermented salted black beans (tau-si) 
• 1 tablespoon five spice powder 
• water for boiling (or broth or half of both) 
• salt and pepper to taste 

Procedure 

1. Saute in a hot casserole using an eighth cup of oil, the garlic and onions until caramelized.  To this, add the chinese sausages until the sausages' oils have melted a bit a mixed with the saute.  Saute the meats with the soy beans next until half cooked. 
2. To the meats, add the mushrooms and rice and saute further until the rice is covered with the meats and onions much like making risotto.  Add the liquids: broth (water) and soy sauce.  The liquid level should be at the second line of your middle finger when the tip is touching the very surface of the rice and meat mixture.  Add the squash and five spice powder.  Cover and simmer, opening the lid once in a while to stir the rice once in a while to prevent burning the bottom and allow the liquids to settle and facilitate steaming and drying the rice.  Once the rice is cooked, turn off the heat and allow to rest for about fifteen minutes before serving. Serve with a topping of chopped green onions.  Sliced scrambled egg strips and peanuts are great additions too.

Superstition perhaps? 

My mother used to cook this dish and during the simmering would put a teaspoon of salt on the cover of the casserole.  When asked for the reason, she said that it facilitates cooking the rice and it’s a practice her mother used to do as well.  I don’t ascribe to this advise, but whatever the origin of this practice perhaps, one can just imagine when and why. 

It's the Celery, Stupid! (or How to Make the Perfect Chicken Salad)

"I'm telling you, Anya Deng, it's the celery." 

My sister, Justina Elieza Lukban, the junior of my mother who is Justina (obviously!), was born eight years after me, in the year 1973 when my mother was almost forty-two.  She was the unexpected baby and took away my privileged status of being the "youngest" (bunso) and its perks. For one thing, I used to be able to get what I want just by bawling my eyes out.  No wonder my eldest brother, Francisco, used to cajole me in asking stuff (that he liked) from my mom hoping that she'll buy it for me/him.  Get it? 

"Just don’t tell her Anya Boyet was asking for it....okay?!" 

Anyway, I digress.  Elieza and I used to be the biggest of enemies for that reason.  But in due time, we find out that the eight year difference is not much once we grow up and that adults are adults.  And when time comes that we are in our forties, I at forty-eight and she just landed on the big four-zero, we both suffer the same backaches, headaches, job stresses and a whole lot more.  But I made my peace with my sister years ago and have maintained a close relationship with her - with all my siblings for that matter.  When we double our age, in another forty years, I at eighty-eight and she at eighty, I am sure we would be suffering from the same dementia and bladder incontinence. 

 I was the designated cook in the family doing the cooking when my Mama and Papa were both busy tending the family farm in San Mateo, Rizal; so my responsibilities once I get home from school include making sure that supper was ready once both of them come home.  At that time, I do not think my kitchen skills were the best, but to my credit, at least I was learning from experimentation and looking at those 1950's cookbooks in my mom's stash. 

Oh, my other brother, Felix, used to come home with me from school and his responsibility was to make sure that the dry laundry hanging at the back of the house was all folded and hung, feed the pets and cook/steam the rice.  So, its not that my siblings were not doing any house chores this time.  Everyone has their own share of house tasks to do everyday. 

But going back to culinary skills and things related to the kitchen, my sister would sometimes do her occasional stint in the kitchen and sometimes, I get a pearl or two that seem to work every time.  "I'm telling you, Anya Deng, it's the celery," is one of them.  And that pertains to putting some celery in salad particularly these two: chicken and tuna. 

Look at this delightful concoction with celery.
Now, whoever made this put raisins as well for
flavor contrast.

And it never fails.  I think because celery is sweet enough, bitter enough and crunchy enough to be added with something spicy and creamy.  Get a celery stick and dip it in ranch dressing and take a bite - I swear it's perfect. 

Which then explains the perfection of my chicken salad.  The only thing that separates family members and I swear this is enough to cause a great debate, is whether something sweet, as contrast, belongs premixed in chicken salad.  My eldest brother would vehemently protest a strong, "NO!" and simply abhors pineapple or pickle relish in any meat or meat flavored salad - chicken or ham with or without macaroni.  And such has been the tradition of  my Aunt Maring who makes the fare during fiestas in my dad's hometown.  But celery?  Celery is enough to make everyone jell singing in perfect unison, "I'd like to teach the world to sing," or "kumbaya". 

Another proof of this is to ask my good friend, Ron whom I've known since 1995 in Philadelphia.  Ron, each time he would visit my house would never fail to "sample" my chicken salad - "tikim" as we say in Tagalog - numerous times and by the bowlfuls. 

Now, celery, as I've mentioned, is only half the equation.  The other is the creaminess of the dressing and this means, mayonnaise - pure unadulterated mayonnaise.  No fat free, no guiltless, no lite formula - just pure oil, egg yolk, vinegar and salt emulsion, old-fashioned mayonnaise. 

In his recipe, I am going to lay everything bare -- my method for making that chicken salad that would make you want more - leading to more fat to deposit around your waist and chin.  Be sure you have some Xenical or Alli around! 

Sinful Chicken Salad (my gratitude to sister, Justina Elieza (b. 1973) 

• 1 whole roasted chicken (can be new or a day old but be sure its at least room temperature) 
•  salt to taste 
• 1 tablespoon pepper 
• 1 head garlic, peeled and chopped 
• 1 medium onion, peeled and chopped 
• 1 cup celery stalks, chopped 
• 1/4 cup real French or German mustard (I insist! None of that "French" brand or Grey Poupon) 
• 2 cups mayonnaise 

Procedure 

1. Make sure the chicken is well rested and all juices have drained out of the meat.  To accomplish this, have the chicken at room temperature or chill the chicken.  Thus, buying the roasted chicken in the cold section of the supermarket where it is one or two dollars cheaper than the fresh one is a good idea.  Debone and slice in rather large cubes - the chunkier the better.  One may choose to add the skin to the salad. 
2. Meanwhile, in a salad mixing bowl, combine the following: garlic,, onion, celery, salt and pepper.  Add the chicken and continue to toss until well combined. 
3. Add the mayonnaise and mustard.  Toss further until everything is even and well-coated.  Chill covered with wax paper or cling wrap.  Serve cold. 

Tips and Suggestions. 

• The best chicken to use for this is a well-seasoned one prior to the roasting.  I always find that Costco's quality is consistent with the right seasonings.  However, Rednor's will offer day old roasted chicken for about three dollars which is cheaper than the freshly roasted one.  In the Philippines, try it with Andok's Lechon Manok or even with Chicken Inasal.

  

  Costco's Roasted Chicken.

  
  

  

  I would say Andok's Lechion Manok is
  perfect for making Chicken Salad.

• Will a boiled chicken do?  Of course, but it is not as tasty as a roasted bird. 
• Why real French or German mustard?  I tasted real French mustard when Mike brought some home from a business trip in Paris. And I have sampled German mustard from Berlin.  As much as both were "white products" (i.e. think of the equivalent of "SM Bonus" or "Pathmark" or "White Rose"), I must admit that Europeans known what mustard is all about. It's pungent, strong on the nose with a sting reminiscent of Wasabi.  The "French" brand mustard as the Grey Poupon on the US is nothing more than just vinegar without any fingerprint of mustard. 

  

  Okay...a lesson in mustard.  This is real
  French mustard.

  
  

  

  This is ewww mustard.

• Can I add some pickle relish or any contrast elements?  Of course.  I usually use craisins which have the right sweetness and tartness and besides, the red morsels would provide the right color contrast to the celery's green and so it makes perfect Christmas offering. 
• Any thoughts on mayonnaise? I've already mentioned that the whole point of mayonnaise is fat. So, no excuses here to be using lite and certainly fat free which tastes like wet shredded newspapers.  What brand?  Lucky Filipinos for Lady's Choice as I miss the stuff - the perfect amount of creaminess with that saltiness that comes from the sides of the mouth - much like umami.  Here in the States, the brand I most prefer is Heinz's which is a bit difficult to find but worth it.  Best Foods or Hellman's are okay (both are the same company - Hellman's in the East as Best Foods in the West coast) but I find the commercial brand Admiration which Is known to supply sandwich shops as the creamiest of them all.  Do not forget Kewpie brand from Japan which is excellent as well.

  

  I would probably say that Lady's
  Choice is my favorite mayo!

Heinz is the mayonnaise I believe that closely
resembles the taste of Lady's

How to Make Pork Asado Siopao (Shaw-Pao or Sieu-Pao) - Chinese Steamed Buns with Pork Filling

Siopao...mmmmm.  I did use that adjective quite recently to describe my liking for roast pork known as Lechon in the Philippines.  But another snack that evokes happy childhood memories is siopao. 

The simple humble yet tasty siopao.

Why? The reason is simple -- it is a treat.  As a family, it was not very common for us to be eating out because my parents spent most of our resources in education that eating in restaurants became a very rare occasion.  And yes, despite the fact that eating dimsum in Chinese restaurants was not very expensive, still, money was better utilized in the educational investment. 

As the saying goes, "Necessity is the mother of invention." My mother has this old cookbook dating from November 1957 and printed on newsprint from the Manila Chronicle.  I love that cookbook because it had some recipes donated by prominent food companies and restaurants as part of their exposure to the public and somewhat sharing their "basic" secrets in making their products.  Not to mention the nostalgic pictures of the old style Pepsi Cola bottle or the seven ounce bottle of 7-Up.  Royal Tru-Orange had also once, Royal Tru-Lime and even Tru-Lemon.  Also, there was Cosmos Beverages, the makers of Sarsi Sarsaparilla when the formula was still made by the original owners, the Wongs.  So, there was Liberty Milk and their approach to Meat Loaf or Milk Maid Condensed Milk (remember that brand?) and their secret in making good Leche Flan.  Well, guess who gave their secret away - Ma Mon Luk.  I remember that page because it simply stated "Asado Siopao" and the final line on the right bottom corner of the page stated, "Courtesy of Ma Mon Luk Restaurant". 

A very old Milkmaid can - from the '50's perhaps.
I'm surprised the owner hasn't caught botulism yet!

And remember these? In 1957. the bottles were
even different than these.  They were straighter
and stouter somewhat similar to the
old-fashioned Pepsi bottle.

This is Pepsi in the 1950's - note the shape of the bottle.
"Light refreshment" - right! With all the sugar - I'm
sure this lady is fat with diabetes, cholesterol, strokes
CAD by now. Did I forget the hip replacements?

My father, not an expert cook though his father was, is the perennial food critic.  He has always stated, "I may not know how to cook but certainly, I know what is delicious and good!" And one of the things he said was, "Ang magandang siopao kailangan nababalatan."  Translation, "The good siopao has to be peel-able" - rather as "Good siopao can be peeled."  What does this mean?  If one notices in Ma Mon Luk, the old timers would sit with a cup of tea in one hand and siopao on the other.  Now, they do not just remove the paper backing and eat away; rather, they would peel the crust off the siopao's surface then eat.  As a child, I do not really understand this practice and just eat the whole thing but according to some, again a rumor, they say that the siopao has been mass produced and of course, been sitting in some box for probably a day or so that the surface was in contact with some unsanitary surface.  So, after steaming and presumably killing the bacteria, at least peeling the surface of the siopao removes this "dirty peel" of the bread.  

"Good siopao can be peeled."

Whether true or not, I judge the quality of a siopao product by that standard.  If the steamed bread crust is able to be peeled, then it is good.  The reason is this -- the crust guarantees the bread to have at least structure to hold the bun.  I notice that softer siopaos that are yeast raised may be over raised and probably containing too much fat that the bun is just too soft and the siopao ends flat after steaming and cooling to room temperature. Usually, this kind of siopao cannot be peeled because the surface is too gooey to be peeled in the first place.  This is especially true in that siopao that was popular in the 1970's that was very white and smooth but somewhat flat and if I remember right, they were made by a family located in Banawe in Quezon City.  While edible, its too soft with not much bite which is true of good steamed bread. 

In this recipe and technique, I am recreating the kind of siopao that Ma Mon Luk does and does well.  It has structure and therefore has a bite.  And the secret lies behind the proper proportions of flour, water and oil which preferably pork fat. 

SIOPAO (with Pork Asado filling - in the style of Ma Mon Luk - as per recipe dated November 1957 of the Manila Chronicle Recipe Book) 

Dough: 

• 5 cups flour 
• 2 cups warm water 
• 1/2 cup sugar 
• 1 tablespoon active dry yeast 
• 1-2 teaspoons salt 
• 1/2 cup pork fat (or bacon fat, chicharron/pork crackling fat) 

1. In a bowl of a heavy duty mixer, combine water and sugar.  Add yeast and mix with slow speed until well incorporated.  Turn off the mixer and leave to ferment which is a testament that the yeast is alive and well. 
2. Add oil and salt and mix further.  Changing the mixer whisk to a dough hook, add slowly half a cup of flour at a time, each time the flour should be well incorporated with the liquids and subsequently, dough.  The last two half cups should be added slowly to incorporate and make a dough that is dry to touch and resilient. 
3. Let rise for an hour or two (depending on the temperature and humidity) until double in bulk. Once risen, punch down and let rise again for another half hour or so. 
4. After the second rising, shape the dough into long loaves and cut into twenty four or so equal  pieces to first fill with the fillings then steam after a further but final 20-25 minutes of rising. 
5. Stream for twenty- five minutes and let rest for a few minutes before serving hot. 

Filling: 

• One kilo of pork - cubed into small pieces 
• 1 tablespoon chopped garlic 
• 1/4 cup soy sauce 
• 1 tablespoon or more (if wanting a sweeter recipe) of white sugar 
• salt and pepper to taste 
• water to cover and braise until tender 

1. In a hot braising pot , saute the garlic until lightly brown.  Add the meat and saute further until half cooked. 
2. Add the sugar, salt and pepper and soy sauce.  Add water enough to simmer until the meat is tender. 
3. Drain the liquid and slice the meat to smaller pieces enough to spoon as filling into the dough. 
4. A trick to make the filling juicier and easier to spoon into the dough is to combine some of the braising liquid with the chopped cooked meat and thicken with a solution made of a tablespoon of cornstarch or cassava flour with a bit of water. 

   

   Yum! Pork Asado Siopao

   
   

   

   Chinese Sausage Siopao

 

In China, the buns are steamed and may be fried to be served
with condensed milk as a dessert.

Siopao without filling is called ManTou, which
is the bread of Cuapao.