Recipe: The Art of Steak or How to Make the Perfect Steak Right in Your Kitchen

The Ribeye.  This sumptuous meat dish could
now be made at home!

Tell you the truth.  My lips and gullet have never known steak until I set foot in the country.  Oh yes, I know "Bistek" which is the Filipino version of the beefsteak made with slices of beef marinated in calamansi and soy sauce before frying and sautéed later with onion rings.  Though the taste is great and I miss it to this day, still nothing is as faithful to the original intentions of beef as meat as the plain beef steak.  For one thing, the "Bistek" is made with traditionally what is supposedly prime Batangas beef.  As unpatriotic I do not want to seem, I must admit that Batangas beef comes from cows that might have led a harder life as beasts of burden similarly to their cousins, the Carabao.  What the Batangas cows might have endured in their lifetimes prior to the slaughter might be from years of mooing and giving milk unlike the Kobe cows that have been eating prime grass, fed Japanese beer and enjoying the massage that they get from top masseurs and spas.  I wonder if we can also the same kind of treatment with our Batangas cows by getting fed with San Miguel Pale Pilsen, eating talahib while getting great massages from The Spa in SM Megamall.  I think we can even lower the costs of production if we buy massage chairs for these creatures or even ask Aling Juliana, the local hilot to provide the services. 

Prime grade ribeye.

But kidding aside, great steak comes from great meat.  And first things first is the degree of marbling.  For discussion purposes, marbling refers to the amount of fat found in between the layers of muscular tissue and the lacier meshwork of fat found; not only is the steak forgiving of heat when cooked and therefore comes out juicy, but face it, fat is flavor.  Although there are ten grades of meat, the last one being "commercial" which I am not sure what could that be and what "commercial" purposes meat could have aside from being transformed into meal for animal consumption; one has to know only the first two grades in order to say it is fit for steak.  The first being prime which according to USDA should be reserved only to about 5% of total beef and it is known for the degree of marbling for that cut of meat and the next is choice, which has less marbling but otherwise good for steak.  

Choice grade ribeye.  See the less marbling?

Of course, the best steaks they say are the Kobe/Wagyu beef which is known for its degree of marbling that it tops USDA prime anytime.  But again, for those cows to receive such degree of fat in between their muscle fibers means that the Japanese geishas must have been working overtime to provide these creatures the massages that they needed (not deserved). 

Second, the factor that makes steak as tender as possible aside from its intrinsic qualities such as the marbling and the way they were raised is the amount and method of aging prior to its cooking and serving.  Essentially, there are two ways of aging meat.  The first is the wet/cold method which is nothing short of keeping the meat in a thawed state, in the refrigerator and wrapped in towels.  Because the towels soak all the liquids, the meat is dry and prevents spoilage.  But the meat's enzymes are present working their way to tenderize each muscle cell.  Although one preserves much of the meat for consumption, the cold state of the enzymes make it inefficient.  The other method is less preferred due to its high spoilage rate but comes with a meat that is not just more tender but also more flavorful and that is the dry method.  In the dry method, one keeps the large cut of meat with its enveloping fat at a temperature of 36 degrees Celsius which keeps the meat enzymes working.  Because it is kept at a dry state, the spoilage is still kept at a minimum although still significant compared to the cold method.  Also, the spoilage usually begins at the periphery where the surface is exposed to the bacteria in the air.  Before cutting, the preparation involves trimming a huge part of the outside layer, usually fat, in hopes of preserving the succulent inside of the beef which is then sliced according to desired thickness and served as steak.  Because of the high wastage, the meats procured by this method is way more expensive. 

Dry aging of beef.

In steakhouses of the hoi polloi, the usual type of meat served is choice and wet aged.  But the steakhouses of the uber wealthy, the steak is usually prime and dry aged with the Wagyu/Kobe offered as testaments of affordability. This is the reason why the same rib eye from the former may cost 24.99 compared to the 59.99 of the latter.  And the difference in price is not just in the meat but also in the fact that the former is cheaper that sides are included while the later has sides optional as ala carte. 

Lastly, different parts of the cow have different intrinsic qualities.  The tenderloin gets its name because it is simply that -- very tender.  It is actually the psoas muscle which is located at the back of the abdominal cavity and it rarely gets the workout compared to muscles that lie on the surface such as the shoulder or legs.  But because of the less workout, though the steak may be tender is comparatively tasteless.  Sirloin, which lies at the cow's side, gets plenty of movement, hence more blood supply and subsequently, flavor.  But with the workout that this muscle gets as the cow moves along, the less tender it becomes. 

For these reasons stated above, the best cut of meat is nothing short of the rib eye.  It has the prefect balance of meat, flavor and marbling.  But even get a Wagyu Ribeye and one will suddenly find his or her own long, lost relatives and friends and definitely he or she will the be toast of the town! 

So there is the meat, but there is also the preparation.  What is a proper thickness of meat?  To better answer this question, one has to determine what degree of doneness does one want in eating the steak and as one knows there are three levels of this - rare, medium and well-done.  Rare is red and cool, medium is pink and warm while well-done is essentially thoroughly cooked.  Medium-rare is red but warm and medium well-done is minimum pink and warm to hot.  In the ability to do these levels of doneness, it is natural that the thicker the meat, the easier it is to do rare to medium; and certainly one can just extend the grilling process in order to do medium well-done to well-done.  However, the thinner the slice of meat, the easier it is to achieve medium to well-done but virtually difficult though may be possible to achieve rare to medium rare.  In my experience with people who eat steak, most would like to still have the taste of meat and therefore medium to medium rare.  It is for this reason that the most optimal cut of steak, especially for rib eye is 1-1/2 to1-3/4 inch. 

The other reason why I chose this thickness is there is only but one searing temperature that works well in achieving a perfect steak and that is the hottest possible that one can have with a thick cast iron pan.  Some estimate that the temperature of a cast iron pan, also known as a skillet, is about 800 to 1000 degrees Fahrenheit.  This high temperature is good enough to immediately broil the meat's surface that would instantly make a crust thus sealing it and steaming the meat with its own juices.  This locks the juices and such would not escape making the steak as juicy as possible once it is done.  The only time that the juices are allowed to escape is prior to serving when it is "rested" a little and even so, while one is eating the steak, the juices continue to seep out. 

If one were to sear a steak that is about 1 inch in thickness using the same temperature, the meat would still be crusted well; however, most of the time, because of the steaming within with a much thinner cut, the meat would easily be cooked thus achieving at least a medium to well done and rare to medium rare is much more difficult with a good crust. 

Resting the steak.  See the juices seeping out?

Once the steak is finished cooking, it is rested to drain immediately of unsightly juices that would otherwise destroy the presentation on a white plate and even so, while on the plate and served, one would notice that the juices continue to be released.  Take note that the steak continues to cook while hot or warm and only when it is cold that this process stops.  But then, no one wants to eat a cold steak. 

What about seasonings?  There are two seasonings I recommend and nothing more - salt and pepper -- that's it.  And unless one wants the Filipino Bistek, no other rubs or marinades are needed. 

And yes, I will teach you how to flambe!

Any other flavorings?  Yes.  If one is interested in the flavors of different fruit jellies to be a contrast to the steak, most could be used as a "glaze" in the final minutes of the cooking time.  Likewise, garlic and onions are usually sautéed in the middle of the searing in order to add flavor and such become sides of the steak.  However, this is not usually done in the upscale steakhouses and is ordered ala carte.  To be simple about it, the steak is given only one kind of treatment after searing and that is, a pat of truffle butter.  The black truffles incorporated in this butter gives out an intense umami aroma when activated by the heat of the steak.  Once the steak is removed nor if preferred, just before its removal from the pan, the remaining caramelized proteins of the meat may be deglazed with a fourth cup of a high alcohol containing sweet wine usually masala or port.  And at low heat, the alcohol evaporates concentrating the flavors of both wine and drippings, this sauce could be placed on top of the finished steak. 

Pan Seared Steak with Onions and Garlic in Marsala Reduction Sauce. 

Ingredients

• 1 24-30 oz beef ribeye or strip steak, cut at least 1-1/2 to 1-3/4 inch thick 
• 4-5 whole large cloves of garlic 
• 1/2 onion, peeled and slices thickly 
• 1/4-1/2 cup of marsala wine 
• 1 pat truffle butter, plain butter would do 
• Salt and fresh ground or cracked black pepper to taste. 

1. Salt and pepper the steak according to taste.  Prior to cooking, keep meats in the refrigerator on one of the shelves and not in the freezer or chiller compartment.  This achieves a uniform cold steak that is perfect for cooking and not one side is colder than others.  
2. Using a cast iron skillet, the thicker, the better; preheat on the highest setting of the stove.  Leave it there for a good four to five minutes to achieve the most intense of heat of about 800 to 1000 degrees Fahrenheit. 
3. With just a starter amount of about one tablespoon of oil or if the meat is very fatty, one can eliminate the oil, immediately drop the steak on the surface. The pan would sear loudly and the fat begins to melt and seep out splattering the skillet surface.  Give it about four minutes for rare, five for medium rare or six for medium so start timing.
4. Once the timing is done, turn the other side and give it two for rare, three for medium rare and four for medium.  At this point is the garlic and onions laid on the sides of the searing meat using the fat to sauté them.  
5. As the vegetables are almost done, pour the marsala or port as one tips the pan toward the flame allowing it to flambé. Reduce the wine then turn the heat off.  Remove the meat and let it rest on a first hot plate.  Meanwhile, the vegetables are set aside.  Apply the pat of truffle butter on the cooked steak giving it a glistening appearance. 
6. Assemble the steak on a new hot plate with the vegetable mix on the side then pour the reduction sauce on top. 

   

   Hmmm...steak....

Tips and Variations. 

• Two cuts I recommend that balance flavor and tenderness: rib eye or New York Strip (aka "Delmonico").  Buy a whole side and slice it yourself with long strokes  flaying the meat as you slice to ensure clean edges.  Trim the uneven side to use for other dishes like teriyaki or other sautes.  Trimming is important to assure even surface allowing equal heat exposure on the meat.  
• I recommend slicing the meat into 1 1/2 to 1-3/4 inches thick to provide allowance for the possibility of making a rare to medium steak.  The thinner the meat, the easier for the heat to penetrate therefore making the steak cook easily and will most like result to medium to well-done steak which therefore does not give the cook much options on the perspective of doneness.   
• Unless you personally know a butcher, I recommend one buys a whole side of meat as it is cheaper per pound plus one can determine the thickness of the cut.  If one buys pre-sliced in a supermarket, tendency is for the cuts to be thinner (about 1/2 inch at most) and this is not recommended unless the meat is to be used for teriyaki and saute where it is expected to be well-done. 
• The skillet is the best kitchen tool for searing.  It retains heat well despite the addition of cold meat and vegetables.  Because it retains high heat, the addition of the high alcohol marsala wine will make sure your flambe is a success.   
• To induce a flambe, tip the pan towards the flame. 
• I cannot emphasize the need for two plates - both should be warm to hot for steak.  The first plate is for resting the meat five minutes or so after cooking.  Resting the meat would allow the unsightly meat juices to seep out and would lessen the mess created on your serving plate.  The second plate is for serving.  Both plates are warm to hot so that the meat can maintain its temperature during resting or serving.