Recipe: Adobo Filipino sa Toyo (Pork and Chicken Adobo in Soy Sauce)

My colleague in the health profession, Ms. Blanca Padilla was so thrilled by the Filipino version of the adobo that she just gobbled it all up!  Asking me for the recipe, I said that I had my adobo perfected after so much trial and error, after studying the various ways and techniques of arriving at the final product and I did not come to that conclusion without research and testing.

After doing some reading, I found out that the Hispanic origins of the word came from “adobar” and essentially means “to marinade”.  But there is likewise a historical anecdote that it also meant “to strengthen” and whether this is accurate or not is still in my mind though the story behind it is that during the olden days of no refrigeration and exploration conquest, navy soldiers were sent months at sea without much provisions except what they have packed in the ship months before.  After all, what can one see for miles and miles of seawater?  So, the adobo, which is laden in fat and pickled in the acids cooked during the process is the perfect “provision”.  But think about it – marinade, pickling, preservation, no-refrigeration, strengthen – these as the qualities of a good adobo.

The acids used in the process seem to differ as well from what I think is historical tradition and the contemporary version.  From what I gather, the acids used then were fruit juices from citrus unlike the vinegar that is used today.  But if one were to see whether there could be some plausibility in this, I would say yes – that this is possible – since the French confit, a duck dish likewise laden with fat and is somewhat like the adobo, uses slices of apples and citrus juices to serve as protective barrier from heat of the French oven that it the slow cooking process the duck is dehydrated by the oils and the fruits are browned but not burnt.  The final product is also as intense and well marinated with juices a bit caramelized as the adobo.

Which draws us to the next part of this historical journey.  When I was growing up in Manila during the late seventies, my father would almost take us kids every summer for vacation in his hometown of Labo, Camarines Norte.  Now, this was a treat for all of us because in the late Sixties, we rarely went to he provinces and it seems that the older he got, the more longing did he have going back home and thus, it became more frequent.  It was during these years that I got to meet a housekeeper by the name of “Tiyang Torne”.

A rather small lady, Tiyang Torne had the nerves of steel to withstand the heat of the raging fire of a wood burning stove.  Because the stove used the compact shell of the coconut as its fuel rather than ordinary wood, the heat was more intense that sometimes, the pans would suddenly smoke and one had to kill the heat with some splashes of water.  It is this intense heat is ESSENTIAL for the making of good adobo.

My mother, a rather thin lady raised in the tradition of vintage Manila with Chinese and Filipino roots always insisted that almost every dish she starts on the stove must be initiated with a sautéing process of the basic condiments – usually garlic and onions.  In so many ways, it is true.  The best decaramelizing agent for food is actually a good broth and this starts with the mirapoix which is usually composed of celery onions and carrots which are usually sautéed in medium heat with oil.

Then, there is my sister, Justina Elieza, my mother’s “junior” – she is credited for teaching me the value of sautéing ground black pepper and salt in oil.  This process wakes up he oils of the peppercorns making it spicier and more intense.

Anyway, these two elements, heat and a good sauté are the basic components in initiating the best adobo.  With that in mind, we now proceed to the recipe.

Ingredients.

• 3-4 kilos of meat which are fat laden. (Could be 1 kilo pork and 1 kilo chicken; best cuts would include chicken legs and thighs, pork shoulder, pork bellies – fattier the better!!)
• 1 tablespoon of salt (essential for a pickling process)
• 1 tablespoon or more freshly ground black pepper
• 1 medium to large head of garlic, peeled and chopped finely
• 3 laurel leaves
• 3/4 cup vinegar, white or for a more authentic taste, coconut vinegar
• 1/4 cup soy sauce
• 1/8 cup oil to sauté or better yet, use the oils from cracklings of chicken fat/pork

Procedure.

1. Use a thick pot – the thicker the better.  Under very high heat – and one can test this: without oil sprinkle a few drops of water: the water should sizzlingly jump and instantly evaporate or when one pours the oil, the oil smokes almost instantly! With the VERY hot oil, sauté pepper, garlic, laurel leaves and salt together.  This “wakes up” all the spices!
2. Once done, NOT charred, throw in the meats and sauté well.  Cover and down the heat to a high medium – boiling vigorously yet not burning the bottom.  At this point, the heat begins to extract all the fat from the meats making the mixture thicker with oils and the proteins as they get degraded by the heat.  Stir occasionally to prevent burning the bottom. Cover and lower the heat to medium, opening the pot occasionally to give a quick stir.
3. Once the liquid is thick enough, pour in the vinegar and once again cover and under lower heat, reduce further reduce the sauce resembles to a sauce.
4. Again, once the sauce is thick enough, pour the soy sauce.  Cover and simmer with low heat to reduce the soy sauce.
5. At this point, the sauce is thick and the soy sauce, vinegar and meats have caramelized well.  Turn off the heat and leave to settle.  Warm, serve with hot rice.

Tips.

• Retention of heat is important!  There is a tendency to lose heat once the meats are put in the pot.  Therefore, the use of a well heated thick pot is a must!
• Do not forget to sauté the spices and the salt before adding the meat.  Waking up the flavor of the spices is good for the dish.
• Use thick cuts of meat and the fattier the better.  Remember, that the ultimate goal is to preserve the meat in its own marinade of meat juices, spices, salt and oils.  Smaller cuts may be used only if the meat is tough but otherwise, meats of acceptable tenderness would do well with larger cuts.
• Because the goal is preservation, try to “age” the dish overnight before consumption.  It’s okay to keep in the refrigerator but traditionally speaking, it keeps well in room temperature. (We are not responsible for consequences of any risks taken for eating it this way.)

Restaurant Review: Banana Leaf in Trinoma Mall

Banana Leaf Trinoma (Image courtesy of City Roamer.)

Banana Leaf.  To most, banana leaves evoke images of the tropics primarily because this delectable fruit which has caused the suffering of many lives in the early twentieth century (and even now) grows only in warm countries.  It was very rare for Western counties to get bananas that the export market of Latin American countries who grow them through their Western based subsidiary companies have to depend on dictators to promote practically slavery to be able to package and bring them to the US; hence the term, "Banana Republic".

In the Philippines, the imagery involves the days of old when fiesta fare is served on banana leaves rather than the paper and plastic plates of Dixie or some repackaging brand.  It also is reminiscent of the "kamayan" style of eating rather than depending on some plastic cutlery.  In the olden days, when food was a more communal affair than it is now, rice with various flavorings were spread on long uncut banana leaves laid on long tables where all diners are seated beside each other free to just grab anything in the middle to place in front of their seat and eat without any regard for possible bacteria they may share amongst themselves.  I guess everyone trusts each other more easily then.  Anyway, I digress.

Now, Banana Leaf is a chain restaurant in Manila which according to search results serves "Asian" food.  While some Asian countries may have banana trees in their flora and fauna, I really cannot associate all things Asian to the banana - rice perhaps, but not the banana.  However, if one qualifies the cuisine as "Southeast Asian and the Pacific", then probably it may make more sense.  The reason why I am prefacing this review with these comments is that I believe the restaurant needs to find the direction in its concept which will be seen in this review.

Roti Canai (Image courtesy of from Banana Leaf menu.)

Amidst good company, Dr. Paul Pasco of the UP-PGH Neurosciences, Dr. Philip Ian Padilla of the UP Visayas fame and Dr. Frederick Hawson, ENT and Film/Theater/Music critic extraordinaire, we started the meal with Roti Canai.  This is a Malaysian dish and the first time I had it was in a Malaysian restaurant named, Penang in 8th Street by Arch in Chinatown Philadelphia. Usually spicy and may have a tendency to be hot, it has a mixture of ginger, red chillies, tumeric, garlic and usually a paste of fermented shrimp called belacan which incidentally has a similar counterpart in Bicolano cuisine called "balao", which is likewise fermented shrimp that has been shaped into blocks.  But the this spice mixture is sauteed in hot oil and made into a sauce (incidentally the word curry is from the Tamil word, "kari" which means also, sauce) with coconut milk, left to simmer and reduce and usually has bits of chicken meat in it.  It is this dipping sauce that is served with Roti Canai which is the flat bread served with it.  The Roti is flawless as it is puffy and light but the Curry is a bit bland and aside from the sauce, there is not much in it.

Satay Chicken (Image courtesy of Banana Leaf menu.)

Thinking that the Banana Leaf restaurant concept is largely influenced by Malaysian cuisine, I preceded to base the whole meal on what I have had in Penang.  So, the next on the agenda were Satay Skewers which if I believe right, should have several complimentary spices as part of the rub usually coriander, turmeric, garlic, lemongrass among others (many variations as one can make his own masalas which is Indian for curry powder) left with the meat, in this case chicken, to absorb for hours before the grilling.  Once grilled, it is immediately served with the peanut sauce (or Satay Sauce) on the side.  For whatever it is, the Satay Sauce was not very appealing to the tastebuds for it lacked the peanut flavor much less the coconut taste.  The grilled meats were bland.  Again, it seems that restaurant is afraid to venture into new flavors and spices which may be totally new to the Filipino palate and it wanted to play safe yet, Malaysian it is not.

Tilapia Fillet with Malaysian Cream Sauce.
This is what was promised. (Image courtesy of
Banana Leaf menu.)

Then there is Tilapia filet with Malaysian Cream Sauce which I thought was interesting because I was really curious what the chef meant by a "Malaysian Cream Sauce".  Now I researched with the ever convenient Google just to find out if there is actually such a thing and in the website www.asian-recipe.com which pointed to a Malaysian Sauces page; never did I encounter such a concoction; not that they do not use cream in their recipes but still no trace of "Malaysian Cream Sauce".  So, how did it fare with the fried fish fillet?  One word to describe it - "dessert" - with so much questions left unanswered, as in, "Is this a re-conceptualization of fish as a dessert item?  That must be original.  Palatable? Well, hmmmm."  To further describe to the reader what happens mouthwise, well, first the dish is served almost appetizingly with these fried pieces of battered tilapia in a makeshift bowl from the bones and fins of the fish where the fillets came from with this light brownish opaque goo that almost resembles gravy or caramel sauce.  I was quite curious because I was expecting a bit of spice with a balance and counterpoint of saltiness and sweetness usually found in Asian cuisine, Filipino included.  But what I find is crunchy tilapia filets, quite overdone, amidst a sweet sauce reminiscent of Dunkin Donuts' Bavarian Cream.  I cannot fathom the connection between what seemingly was a cream sauce with the character of condensed milk and vanilla on fried fish; likewise, it probably may have more of a Moroccan aftertaste where sometimes sweet and saltiness with a hint of cinnamon.

This closely resembled what arrived on table. I am
quite surprised someone did get an image of
this and posted it on another blog. (Image
courtesy of jowanabueser.com)

Also a word on the presentation, I suggest using a larger white dish to accent the fish and probably a sprig of cilantro or spring onions for color contrast will do; but these are the minimum.

As for the other cravings, the group decided on something a bit accustomed to the Filipino palate, thus, the Phad Thai.  If one were to actually get to the nitty gritty of this dish, one realizes that the main flavoring is essentially similar to that of the Filipino Pancit Bihon for one thing both use noodles that are derived from rice with the former similar to the linguini and the latter similar to the vermicelli.  The difference is the use of lime (as opposed to calamansi) with the inclusion of tamarind pulp and peanuts in Phad Thai. Filipinos are used to the taste of tamarind (as in Sinigang, Sampalok candies), limes (though calamansi is better) and of course peanuts (Choc-Nut and Lily's Peanut Butter).  And still, the dish is as bland as ever.

Noble Leaves as promised. (Image courtesy
of Banana Leaf menu.)

Vegetables.  There is something wrong with the Stir Fried Malaysian Noble Leaves because looking at the picture, I thought they were similar to the Snow Pea Shoots which are lightly sauteed in garlic and hot oil which are seen in Chinese restaurants and with their light crunch and tender leaves, its a perfect flavor to accompany rice.  But what arrived were yellowing stalks of some vegetable which somewhat resemble Snow Pea Shoots but seemingly different from the picture.  Also, they were tough on the teeth, stringy leaving their fibrous residue between the teeth and gums.  It took an all day flossing with several toothpicks to remove the "natural floss"left behind by this dish.

This closely resembled what arrived. One may
account the difference in lighting but I swear, its true!
(Image courtesy of quickdelivery.)

Because the Malaysian theme did not quite sit well with our taste buds, Dr. Pasco decided to just drive the culinary journey home with Nasi Goreng which is literally, "Fried Rice" Indonesian Style.  I think anyone can do fried rice well and certainly a Filipino owned restaurant like Banana Leaf can.  So to end the meal with something that's right at least, gave a denouement to a gastronomic story filled with conflicts and irony.

We end with dessert. The Sago Pudding in Thai Pandan Leaf is at least authentic.  I had the opportunity to try these things by buying them in Asian stores around Philadelphia and it usually has a light hint of pandan with a generally coconut flavor in a sago base resembling the consistency of rice pudding. Light, it was good to draw the curtains and provide closure to the palate.

And last, the Sago Pudding. (Image courtesy
of Banana Leaf menu.)

So Banana Leaf is scenery.  Banana Leaf is using banana leaves as plates rather than dishes and cutlery.  And Banana Leaf is Asian but as to what identity it wants to project is still confusing.  As authentic it may be by its individual offerings; the different directions they take still leave much to be desired.

Acknowledgement. Images courtesy of the respective owners.  I also thank again, Drs. Paul Pasco, Philip Ian Padilla and Frederick Hawson for the wonderful company and conversation!

Restaurant Review: Mey Lin Pot and Noodle House in SM Megamall

Oh yes.  The noodlehouse. Noodle houses provoke different memories depending on the perception of the diner. To some, it reminds them of home cooked meals as one friend told me once when I prepared simple Chinese style noodle soup topped with pickled radish.  He said, "Fred, this reminds me of Taiwan. Hmmm.  Thank you!"  To others, it may be sophisticated gourmet.  I believe, Mey Lin Noodle House in SM Megamall are both.

La-Mien in Chinese is "Ramen" in Japanese.

As one enters the corner end restaurant located on one of the floors of the said mall, a clear window is seen displaying the noodle maker's expertise as he pulls the dough from large masses to become the final thinly pulled freshly made noodles.  Amazing!  In case one would like a bit of trivia, the Japanese word "Ramen" as in, "Ramen noodle" came from the Chinese word, La-Mien which is Mandarin for exactly just that - "Pulled Noodles"; hence, the imagery and the word.
But there is more to the traditional way of making the noodle - as they say, cliché, "The proof is in the pudding."  Is it worth the visit?

They have various ways of concocting the flavors of soups that are mixed with the noodles just as they have various ways of sautéing them as well which could be birthday style or with various meats or seafood or "Cha-Sio" pork (also known as Tsa Sio in Manila for the Chinese Barbecue style pork) and vegetables for the different sautés. However, if one really wants the essence of this establishment, noodle soup is the way to go.
 

Ansio Beef Noodle Soup.

I ordered the Ansio Beef Noodle Soup which is essentially beef flavored noodle soup with toppings of pieces of beef braised in stewing liquid usually composed of soy sauce, sugar, Chinese wine and five spices.  Some, depending on their taste may add a bit more of one or two of the spice components that make up the five spices -- star anise or cinnamon being two of them. Mey Lin's taste is somewhat more on the star anise but definitely flavorful and the beef being there though not robust enough as ones my taste buds may have experienced in other establishments.  Nonetheless, still it is good for the tummy and best for the soul; not to mention sinuses too!  The soup comes with a helping of Chinese Bok Choi beside the beef pieces balancing the meats to the blandness of the vegetable to help bring the beef flavor forward to the welcoming palate.

The Seafood Noodle Soup is clean, if that is the best way to describe it.  Composed of various seafood deli cuts like shrimp and fish balls (as Chinese would call it, "He-Ei" in Fukien Ming Nan dialect), the broth is clear with yet again Chinese Bok Choi on the side.

There are more offerings in the menu, among them are the Congees which I had the opportunity to try the Pork and Century Egg.  Now, this is considered a yardstick of Congee testing as it is available in almost all Chinese restaurants where Congee is served. Mey Lin's is well-balanced on the flavors of the pork and its counterpart, the ammoniac and nasal Century Egg amidst the blank canvas of white rice porridge with a hint of sesame oil.  Where it stands short was on the silkiness of the rice preparation. There is a reason to this, from experience, the best porridges come from hours and hours of boiling rice in water and one becomes surprised to realize that it does not take much rice grains in a huge pot of boiling water to make so much congee base.  The complication arises from the initial breaking of the rice as it boils leading to further breakdown until the starches mixes with the water to a light paste.  Because the grains have a tendency to settle at the bottom of the pot, unless the pot is thick and the simmering fire is low met with frequent stirring, the rice burns accounting for an unforgivable burnt rice flavor.  This is not the case with Mey Lin; however, it seems that the rice could use more boiling to achieve the gruel consistency it should be.  This gives a silken smooth play on the tongue and earthiness of the rice grains are well exposed. A trick to achieve this consistency is to break the grains well before they even get into the water.  The use of rejected broken rice, the kind that the Vietnamese serve with their meals in the restaurants I tried in here in Philadelphia (not necessarily real Vietnam but they are Vietnamese owned) may achieve this trick.  Another trick one can try is to blend rice with water in the highest speed thus breaking the particles very well into a starchy mixture, then adding it to a huge pot of boiling water while stirring constantly to avoid clumping. Then cover, simmering in low heat with occasional stirring. One notices that this method achieves the congee consistency that is heavenly to the feel of the tongue. 

Siao Lung Bao.

The Soupy Dumplings - also known as, Siao Lung Pao is also on the menu.  Difficult to make and if it were on the menu, it is a feature for the competition.  For one thing, it is already complicated enough to make a flavorful broth, it is even more difficult to make it gel taking loads of cartilaginous proteins from animal meat products such as feet, hooves, knuckles and other joints from where cartilage could be derived.  Trivia: does anyone know that Jell-O Gelatin is animal by product derived from the same process unlike the gulaman in the East which is a seaweed derived?  The reason for the need to make the gel soup is in the reason for the existence of Siao Lung Bao. As the gel soup is made in the cold, it is easier to cut and handle and subsequently wrapped in dumpling dough.  Because it is cold, it retains its shape until exposed to steam where the dumplings are cooked and the soup melts back in its liquid state.  As one eats the newly steamed morsels does one's tongue meet the smooth gelatinous soup though carefully lest one risks burning the tongue.  Siao Lung Bao, aside from the flavor has to balance these textures.  It should be soupy yet smooth because of the gelatinous consistency of the soup.  The dumpling wrapper should be thin but thick enough to hold the soup or else the broth escapes. Mey Lin's Siao Lung Bao could use a bit of thinning the wrapper and or increasing the soup filling as the product has a tendency to be dry.  The flavor is good though can use a bit of ginger to remove and balance the gaminess of the meat.  A suggestion too is to use sliced dried shitake mushrooms as complimentary to umami taste of the dumpling without overpowering the meat aspect of the flavor.

Mey Lin also offers the shrimp dumpling thinking that it is the same as the crystal skin dumplings also known as "ha-gao" (Cantonese) or "Sia-Chiew" (Mandarin), literally translated as Shrimp Balls.  The skin of the latter is crystal clear made with a dough that has been made relient by adding boiling water to the flour rather than using the wrapper directly made of the addition of cold water to the flour.  In both cases, the filling is a similar shirmp mixture made of minced peeled shrimp, scallions, sesame seed oil, salt, pepper to taste with a bit of ginger just enough to give that aromatic hint.  Both are steamed but the shirmp dumpling can also be steamed/pan fried or fried or served in soup as wontons.  Mey Lin's version is okay, clean to the finish but a bit bland and may use a bit more shrimp. 

Soup, noodles and dumplings. What more could I ask for? Though I asked for a serving of beer to go with lunch, never in my dreams did I expect to be served with what is essentially a "family sized" bottle of Tsingtao.  I didn't know that that was the size as it was not clear on the menu.  Anyway, with all these, I didn't have room for dessert which was a pity as I actually wanted to try their Sesame Seed encrusted Mochi Balls (a.k.a. buchi).

The service was relatively on a relaxed pace but then the food compensates for this.  Besides, it was lunch time and the business of the situation was very challenging for the wait staff.

A word on this establishment.  This is actually my second time being in Mey Lin, the first was when my brother took me here in an earlier visit back April 2013.  Now, beside our table were two young ladies sporting very "label oriented" fashion wear. They were talking in Chinese -- Fukien Chinese? No! Sophisticated Mandarin Chinese! One can hear each syllable distinct and very delicately spoken.  Now, the moral of this anecdote is simple.  If Mey Lin can have clientele like these in their simple mall restaurants, that means one thing. The food is authentic and good.
Acknowledgement. I wasn't able to take pictures of my visit in Mey Lin but the pictures are from images searched and uploaded in the internet.  My thanks to their original sources.

Recipe: Adobong Manok at Baboy sa Dugo ala Confit (a Dinuguan Update)

Okay. So I wasn't thrilled by Kanin Club's Crispy Dinuguan because of the fried morsels of pork which may find itself dislodged in one's dentures and presenting as an inconvenient opportunity to look for toothpicks and dental floss; not to mention the embarrassment of flossing in public. I am not without suggestions for improvement or innovation.
Now, I understand that fans of this traditional Filipino dish may be attracted to the more reduced and concentrated version of the stew because of its more intensified flavor. Likewise, it serves as a better accompaniment to steamed rice as a meal rather than a soupy conviction. If one analyzes the components of dinuguan and compares it with the traditional Filipino adobo, one finds that both are actually similar except for the addition of green chili pepper and blood in the former. In this light, I decided to do a new take on dinuguan and even a different way of tenderizing it.
Thus, here presenting, a debut recipe of a new way of preparing dinuguan. I think I'll call it, "Adobong Manok at Baboy sa Dugo ala Confit". 

Ingredients.

• 1 1/2 kilo chicken cut in large pieces
• 1 1/2 kilo pork cut likewise in large pieces
• 1 tablespoon freshly ground black pepper
• 1 tablespoon sea salt (to taste)
• 3 laurel leaves
• 1 medium head garlic, peeled and chopped
• 1/2 cup of blood (pork, beef or chicken)
• 1/2 cup of white vinegar

Procedure.

1. Season the chicken and pork pieces with salt and pepper.
2. In a French oven like Le Creuset, arrange in a layer the meat and sprinkle the chopped garlic and lay the laurel leaves. Cover and bake in 350 degrees Fahrenheit for three hours.
3. Mix the vinegar and blood together in a bowl.
4. On the last twenty minutes of baking, open the pot and even pour the blood vinegar mixture. If one notices since the French oven is very efficient in retaining meat juices during the baking, the meats practically cooked itself in its own liquid. Put the green chili on top and cover once again for the last twenty minutes.
5. Serve with rice.

Tips.

• The best thing about using a French oven is the fact that the thing is just heavy. Heavy pots and lids retain moisture very well that despite the lack of addition of water, the intense heat and vapor helps in the tenderizing process as the meats retain their shape. Using the day laden within the meat, it promotes a slow cooking process that is reminiscent of confit.
• The blood in the dish will naturally be a bit coarse but laden with flavor. This is normal. Actually I was quite surprised that I didn't mind it at all.
• As usual with Filipino dishes and dinuguan, they taste much better after letting it rest overnight.

Libation: Jerry's Donut Martini

Recently, I have to ask a favor from a good friend, Jerry Tin.  Jerry and I were classmates in Xavier School which is located in Greenhills, San Juan, Metro Manila.  But this drink that I concocted in November 9, 2011 (Hey, two years ago!) was born out of the fact that I had some Amaretto in my liquor cabinet supposedly for some party that one of the guests requested yet failed to attend it.  So, with so much of this liquor and not being familiar with its flavor, I decided to make something out of it and the result reminded me of cinnamon-sugar donuts!

The connection with Jerry is that he was (I don't know if he still is) crazy about Dunkin' Donuts.  Despite his love for physical culture - and who wasn't during the teenage years - he managed to succumb to these morsels thus returning back to square one.  I doubt it whether he did achieve his Arnold physique.  But this cocktail reminded me of him.  And, thus, here again, from a previous Facebook post of mine in 2011, I present once more, Jerry's Donut Martini.

"My good classmate Jerry Tin used to (or does he still?) actively do bodybuilding exercised when we were in high school. The problem was, he was addicted to Dunkin' Donuts. So, despite the exercises, he would indulge in these munchkins and... thus defeat the whole purpose of the exercise. Anyway, I promised him that I would make this drink in honor of him and his bodybuilding endeavors and make sure that it would closely resemble the flavor of a donut.

 

Though this is a less guilty version of the donut pleasure, please remember that alcohol is a NO-NO if you are really that into physical culture. But then, do we deserve a bit of epicurean delight?

 

So, mix in a shaker with ice cubes:

• 2 jiggers vodka,
• 2 jiggers amaretto,
• 2 jiggers non-fat or soy milk
• 1 teaspoon of coffee granules. 

 

Shake - and serve in a well chilled martini glass. Remember to add a dash of cinnamon on the foam. You may choose to rim the glass with a mixture of Splenda/NeutraSweet with cinnamon.

 

A good garnish with a bit of contrast is a maraschino cherry.

 

Now - go and serve this delightful concoction to your wives, husbands, girlfriends, boyfriends, your number twos, threes, fours or just about anyone. It guarantees a good time..."

 

Tips:

• Chill everything! Your liquors, vodka (in freezer if possible) and ice.  The colder the better.  Once you shake the drink in ice, the cocktail has a tendency to dilute in water and certainly you do not want a bland concoction.
• I suggest ice should be fresh - from the freezer and not bathed in water to remove from the tray.  Again this is for the same reason above.
• Sugar for the rim is, of course, the best...but extra calories?

 

Restaurant Review: Kanin Club in Technohub Diliman, Quezon City

Dateline October 31, 2013. Place...Technohub near UP Diliman. The first day of my stay in Metro Manila, I chanced upon this restaurant which I believe is a chain specializing in Filipino dishes. Looking at their menu, I think that the restaurant is more "Neo Filipino" rather than traditional Filipino. The menu items contain the usual words that define what is Filipino cuisine; but the descriptions speak more of reinventions of such. That sounds exciting. For one thing, in this world of restaurant competition, one does not survive by the mere usual, rather it is ruled by the unusual, the extraordinary, the special and sometimes even the weird.
For appetizers, Kanin Club offers crispy pork belly which I thought is traditionally known as Lechon Kawali similar to that offered by Chinese stores, known for the crispy skin with a layer of fat underneath and lean meat further served with a sweet sauce or a combination of garlic, vinegar and soy sauce dip and a side of sweet papaya pickles. What arrived on the table were thin slices of pork belly sans skin and cut thinly deep fried to a crisp served with a dip of the same vinegar, soy sauce with crushed fresh garlic. "Tough on the teeth," I thought. The crispness is there, no doubt, though sensitive on the gums and the pieces seem to lodge between teeth. I wonder how it would be for customers who sport dentures.
The Kilawin Blue Marlin, a take on the Latin American ceviche is supposedly fresh though rather strong on the vinegar but forgivable after all what it is is a vinaigrette. The hotness using the peppers and peppercorns is just right. The cuts of fish could rather use a thinner version. As mentioned, I'm not sure of the freshness of the preparation as it seemed that the fish pieces relative to its size has already been cooked thoroughly by the acidic marinade.
Soup. The Hototay is a delight. Warm and light with somewhat an afterfeel of seafood - fish perhaps but definitely not fish sauce - it's a dish that defines Filipino cuisine for it plays on counterpoint. Several dishes play on either seafood or meat and some even further defined by just pork or beef or chicken but never a mix. This is somewhat a melange of meat with fish but not to a point of irritation. It's simply wonderful. Reminds.com of the Chicken Soup that is supposedly good for the soul.

Main dishes. Stated in the menu that it is the dish they are known for, Crispy Dinuguan is next on the agenda. It is described that the dish is a reworking of the traditional Dinuguan which is pork blood stew consisting of various pork cuts including those considered a bit unconventional for the foreign palate - pork hearts, cheeks and ears. In this version, deep fried pork pieces are used which give the dish its crunchy feel. So the meat chunks are fried to a crisp and a drier version of the Dinuguan broth which has the consistency of a sauce rather than broth is poured on top of the pieces with a fresh green chili serving more as decor is on the side. Again, the pork pieces are tough and challenging to the dentures. The Dinuguan itself is rough on the tongue and probably the raw blood was added in the pot during the cooking process with minimal stirring thus the blood particles had somewhat congealed creating the rough texture. Here, I think that the traditional Dinuguan is better than the reworked version. The original stew consisted of tenderized meat choked through a long simmer. One note, if it ain't broke, don't fix it. Just sayin'.

The Sigarilyas is a treat. To those unfamiliar with this vegetable, it is as thick as one's pointing finger with the shape somewhat resembling a pointed star when seen on the side cut crosswise. It has a crunch that is pleasant to the bite with a flavor that is a bit bitter bordering on the aromatic. What is delightful about the dish is its combination with sauteed garlic and pork then simmered with coconut milk. What is even more surprising is how the preparation managed to bring out the coconut oils, called "latik" which when mixed with the vegetable and meats results in a something comparable to heaven. Most likely the meat and coconut mixture have been prepared way ahead and the Sigarilyas was added later thus preserving the vegetable's intrinsic crunch and flavor. This I can only surmise because from experience, it takes considerable period of simmering before the latik comes out of coconut milk. However the preparation and from the cold storage the pre prepared meat and coconut may have sat prior to its presentation to table, it is greatly recommended.

What about the Crispy Pata?  Our version of the German Scheweinshaxe which according to Wikipedia is a dish with Bavarian origins and described as "a roasted ham hock," although the "Austrian version called Stelze (Austrian pronunciation [ˈʃtɛl.tsɛ], Viennese pronunciation ['ʃtœˑ.tsṇ]), is usually marinated or pre-boiled in a caraway seed and garlic brine, roasted until the skin is crisp, and served with mustard, horseradish, and pickled chili peppers."   The Philippine version, from my memory started about the mid to late seventies when it was concocted as part of beer house pulutan and eaten with beer in the presence of friends with "all-so-quite" adult entertainment.  I have a feeling this was brought into the culture by the German immigrants some of whom have chosen to stay in the country with their Filipina wives.  Anyway, I digress.  As for the Kanin Club's Crispy Pata, I have no complaints.  In fact, the meat falls off the bone.  The baked version in Berlin in this restaurant near the Hilton was so good and less fatty yet crispy with a creamy feel that I just have to have it twice in the same restaurant on two different occasions.  It seems that frying the pork hock dehydrates the meat further than baking it which has a tendency to seal meat juices within.  But fried or baked, I love them both.  The hock presented with fried shrimp crackers places an Asian signature to this dish.
I had the opportunity to try two different rice preparations. The first is Sinangag sa Taba ng Talangka. First of all, to explain, Sinangag is nothing more than fried rice with the main flavoring essence is sauteed garlic. It is also known as plain garlic rice. In the tradition of Chinese fried rice with all the trimmings, Sinangag saga Taba ng Talangka uses the fat derived from small crabs known in the Philippines as Talangka add its main flavoring mixed with the aromatic sauteed garlic. This, I think, is genius. The fat has an eclectic aroma the reminds one of the sea yet creamy on the tongue leaving a light salty afterfeel. This is perfect. The next preparation is quite a bit overdone. Sinangag sa Daeng is a concoction similar to former but using sun dried salted kipper which had been deboned and separated into slivers as its main flavoring. I find kipper a fishy fish to begin with but dried and preserved salted concentrates this quality. It's either a love it or hate it affair. And therefore in my opinion, I think I can take it in small doses and probably a smaller amount in the rice would have made it better. After all, its Sinangag sa Daeng and not the other way around.
There were two desserts I tried. The first is the Turon sa Ube which is a take on the banana fritter using the spring roll wrap and the Saba variety of banana. To expound further, the Saba banana is a fat version of the plantain, shorter but sweeter and similarly starchier when green though more tender when ripe. I like this more than the plantain though plantain is what's readily available in the United States. The Turon is good; what made it better is the Ube with the Langka or jackfruit in it. Fried to a crisp, it brings out the flavors of the individual components into a delightful melange as the crispness provided a contrast even a backdrop that brings the fruit flavors forward.
The better one is the next dessert which is sticky rice with Macapuno and sweet beans. Macapuno is a mutant coconut that instead of the usual coconut water with an outer white layer both enclosed within the hard shell, the meat is whitish translucent with a gelatinous middle that probably may be a mix of the water incorporated in the softer version of the coconut meat, being a mutant fruit. Shredded and cooked with a bit of sugar, this is such a delight that mixes well with rice. Reminds me of rice pudding in the States. Now, Mike couldn't understand the use of sweetened beans as dessert in the Philippines but he is familiar with it in Asian countries. But then, Asian countries may not understand the use of rice as dessert when served cold with vanilla and milk as flavorings typical of that in the US. (Though we know to serve it warm sweetened as in bibingka or champurado.)  But in a word, I would say I love this dessert. One more thing, as I explore the various components of this piece, I noticed there was a sprinkle of some brown powder on the rice top. Cocoa? Coffee? Cinnamon? Nutmeg? No. It was ChocNut, that famous confection composed of pulverized cocoa, sugar, powdered milk and peanuts. Now our version of this in the States is the Reese 's peanut butter cup but the chocolate portion of the cup is the usual milk chocolate and the peanut portion is essentially peanut butter. Here, the powders are mixed well and no extra fat in the process is added unlike in the Reese's version. The sprinkling of ChocNut is clever and worked well for the purpose as it blended with the natural taste of the rice which is glutinous and fragrant.
Finally, the scene. Well, its an eating place. Nothing much that's special but when the food is good and and adventurous, who needs it? But it is comfortable, the service relatively quick. I noticed too that there are Filipino paintings on the walls but most of them are hung high near the ceiling that appreciating them is a chore but then, it's a restaurant not a museum.
Kanin Club's take on traditional Filipino may be fresh and besides, who wants the usual? But I think it may need a bit of refinement. Some on mark and may have missed a bit or even overshot. Over all, the effort is commendable.

Recipe: How to Make Dinuguan (Filipino Pork Blood Stew)

Dinuguan is a traditional pork blood stew very popular in the Philippines and commonly served with steamed rice cake called "Puto" - no relation to the Spanish swear word which ellicits stares of shock when mentioned.  Anyway, the dish is spicy, salty, meaty and GOOD!  Mike used to hate Dinuguan especially since I first cooked it because it is unfamiliar to the Western palate.  But when I taught him how to make it, and  now knowing the procedure and having tasted his concoction, he has never stopped loving it ever since.

Notes: There are many versions of the Dinuguan depending on what region the Philippines one comes from.  Recently, I have the opportunity to visit Anvaya Cove in Bataan and I noted that their stew has a bit of a sweetness to it.  This reminds me of the traditional Philippine cigarrettes named "Bataan" being sold in Manila during my childhood years.  With the advent of US cigarrettes especially Phillip Morris and More, both brands considered to be luxury compared to Marlboro and Champion which are considered better than the local La Yebana and Bataan; the latter cigarrettes just died their natural death.  Anyway, on their labels is the moniker, "Matamis" meaning 'sweet' in Tagalog.  So cigarrettes being sweet? The Bataan style of Dinuguan is an explanation perhaps.

But in the Bicol region is the concoction mixed with coconut milk in the blood prior to to its addition, making the dish having an aromatic coconut flavor.  My father prefers it this way but I consider it overdone.  I loved it as a child, but now I just prefer it plain, a bit more on the sour side, reminiscent of the Adobo.  I believe Pampaguenos prefer theirs on the sour side, the Tagalogs on the soupy thin side.  I am partial to both styles combined.  So here goes.

Ingredients:

• 1 head garlic, peeled and chopped finely
• 1 tablespoon freshly groundblack pepper (Yes - it is one tablespoon - will explain later)
• 1 medium onion, peeled and sliced thinly
• 1 kilo pork shoulder, cut into cubes (traditional way in the Philippines involves various cuts of meat that include hearts, pork cheeks, ears, sometimes even chitlins or cleaned pork intentines)
• Salt to taste.
• 2 laurel leaves
• 1 cup of blood, sources may be pork, chicken or beef.
• Some water to tenderize the meat (about a cup)
• 2 cups of water (separate from the above)
• 1/2 cup of white vinegar or coconut vinegar. For a slightly more sour dish which helps to remove the gaminess of the meat, use about 3/4 cup.  This is dependent on your taste.
• 1 piece of  green chili

Procedure:

1. In a deep stewing pot, saute in approximately 1/8 cup of hot oil both garlic and ground black pepper until the garlic is brown and the black pepper is fragrant and mixing well with the oil.
2. Saute next the onion until a bit cooked and transluscent.
3. Add the pork and saute well.  Lower the heat and cover for about a minute or two.
4. Open the pot, add some water to boil and tenderize the meat.  Add the laurel leaves. Leave covered in medium heat. This may take about an hour.  But one can tell that the meat is done when it is tender to the bite.
5. In a separate bowl, mix well the vinegar, the two cups of water and vinegar.
6. When the meat is ready, uncover the pot and in high heat with the mixture vigorously boiling, add slowly, while stirring the stew, the blood-water-vinegar mixture.  Take care that the blood cooks well each time it is added.  This is important!
7. Once all the blood is incorporated in the stew, add the green chilli and cover the pot. Leave it to simmer with occasional stirring to prevent the stew from burning.  Reduce to desired thickness and the green chilli's fragrance is in the stew and the vinegar is "cooked".
8. Serve with steamed rice cake (Puto) or steamed rice.

Tips:

• During the sauteing process, use high heat to release the oils of the freshly ground pepper. This will help remove the gaminess of the meats and the "bloody" odors of...blood (what else).
• A good way to satrt the sauteing is the use of pork fat.  Get some pork fat cut in small cubes, starting with medium heat, saute lightly until the fat turns to cracklings and the oil is extracted. In Philippine cuilimary parlance, this is known as nagtsitsitsaron (from "chicharron" or Pork Skin Cracklings in Spanish).
• Never skip on the use of laurel leaves.  It imparts an aroma that is helpful in removing gaminess.
• When adding the blood-vinegar-water mixture in the pot, it is important that the stew is boiling vigorously!  Also, stir well as the blood mixture is being added.  This prevents the blood cells from congealing during the cooking process preventing a gritty feel on the tongue.  It achieves a smooth stew.
• You may adjust the vinegar during the stewing.  Add more to your desired taste.  There is a saying in Philippine cuisine, "hanggang sa maluto ang suka". Literally translated, "until the vinegar is cooked" - what this means is that the vinegar needs to degenerate by the heat of the cooking process.  By leaving it to stew, the vinegar becomes gentler, less acid and more pleasant to the palate.
• If the Bicolano version is desired, one can substitute 1 cup of water in the blood-vinegar mixture with 1 cup of coconut milk.  Thus, the proportions will be 1 cup coconut milk, 1 cup water, 1 cup blood and 1/2 cup vinegar.

I hope you enjoy making Dinugan (and eating it) as much as Mike and I demonstrated it in the cooking video.